Changing guitar strings is really not a complicated task, but it
is for some reason intimidating to new guitarists. Intimidating or
not, it is an easily-acquired skill that any guitarist should have.
At concerts, there is someone assigned to do speedy string changes
between songs. If they can do it, so can you. (Note: This guide
presumes you're changing strings on a "dreadnought" style acoustic
guitar. Electric guitars are somewhat different but many of the
same rules apply.)
Steps
- Decide how to restring. There is much debate about whether it
is wise to remove and replace every string individually, or simply
to unstring everything and then restring everything. The argument
to be made here is that by using the one-at-a-time method, you
maintain most of the tension the neck is used to, and therefore
keep string tension in balance with truss rod tension. However,
because fingerboards accumulate a mix of skin oil, skin and dirt
(which saps tone and acoustic sustain from the guitar), removing
all the strings at once permits you to clean and wipe the
fingerboard without linting up the strings or having to work around
them. The choice is yours as to which method to use.
- Remove the strings. Loosen the strings until they are no longer
under tension. Then, either clip them using nippers or continue to
loosen them via the tuning machines until they can be pulled out of
the tuning pegs. An inexpensive tool called a peg winder, available
at any music/guitar shop, is very handy for this.
- Remove the bridge pins. Once your strings have been removed
from the headstock, take out the bridge pins. These are the
knob-looking things (usually white or black) that allow the strings
to hook themselves onto the inside of the guitar. Bridge pins can
be quite stubborn, especially if either they or the guitar is new.
Occasionally you may be tempted to grab these from the outside with
pliers. While this is acceptable if done with the utmost caution,
it is generally not necessary. The best method is to use a bridge
pin puller, which comes in all varieties (and therefore prices),
and can be purchased at any guitar/music shop. Another method would
be to push the pins out from inside the guitar instead. Actually
pushing the string further into the guitar as you do this sometimes
helps since the end of the string is wound and "wedges" itself in
with the peg. Once the pegs pop free you can pull them out of the
peg holes. Note: Over time, each peg is grooved by the strings
they've been holding. It is very advantageous to keep your pegs
laid out in the order they are removed so you can put them back in
the same holes from which they were removed.
- Remove the strings from the peg holes.
- Clean your guitar, if desired. This comprises cleaning the
body, fingerboard, back of the neck, and headstock. Use a decent
cleaner from a guitar or music shop if possible. Never use
furniture polish, glass spray or other common household cleaners.
If nothing else, simply use a slightly dampened* chamois cloth,
terrycloth, diaper or lint-free cotton cloth. Oils from your hands
will build up on the fingerboard of the guitar with remarkable
speed causing a thick gunk. Many frown upon applying any water at
all to the guitar, especially the fingerboard, as it can negatively
affect unsealed wood. A dry cloth is safest, but if you must use
water, you should apply such a minuscule amount of water to the
cloth that you can barely tell it is damp.
- Get your new strings ready. Some strings' ball ends are
color-coded to indicate what note they are to be tuned to.
- Choose your own order. There are many theories about what order
strings should be applied. Some guitarists start at the thin end
and work their way up, or start at the thick end and work their way
down. Some say it is best to first put in the thinnest string, then
the thickest, then alternate to the next-thin
