If you tend to collect "stuff" and need a place to store it, this shelter is for you. It can also double as a carport, since a vehicle can drive through it.

Steps

1.   Build two parallel four foot fences, thirty feet long. They need to have a distance of 13' 6” between the outside of the walls. They also need to be exactly opposite each other so if there was an enc between each end it would form a perfect rectangle. This means that distance between diagonal opposite ends should be the same. 32”11”.
2.   the four end posts that will create the imaginary rectangle. Use 8' posts (you will cut the extra off after all post are placed). Dig the four corner a foot square, and two feet deep. Place the posts so that the outside of the post is 13'6” from the outside of the post on the other fence. The outside of the post for the length should be 30'. Place nails or screws in the end of the posts to lock them in the concrete.
3.   Brace the posts when the positions are correct and the posts are plumb. They should be braced in at least two directions. See photo.
4. Using a wheel barrow mix three sixty pound bags of concrete and water until you have a wet but not watery batch of concrete. Fill the first hole and repeat the procedure for the three other holes. After setting over night fill in the intermediate post at 10' centers between the ends using the above procedure.
5. Find the post with the highest ground elevation, and measure from the ground 4' up the post, then mark that position with a felt tipped pen. Tie a string at the mark and using a line level, mark each post at a position level with the first post. If this is done correctly all the remaining post will be greater than 4' off the ground. Cut excess post off at the marks
6.   Using your 10' pressure treated 2”x4”s cut them to the exact length between each post. Attach support blocks to each post so that the tops are 3'10.5” from the top of the post. You can also lay a scrap 2”x4” on top of the post and measure down 4'. Attach the bottom rails between the posts. Now attach the top rails.
7.   Place intermediate 2”x4” members on 8' centers from one end post to accept the 4'x8' plywood panels. Attach the plywood to the sides, cutting the last panel to fit.
8. Paint the outside and top of the fence with a good outdoor primer and paint.
9.   Cut 8 24” pieces from one of the fence top rails. You can cut these yourself or have the fence dealer make all the cuts for you, although they will charge you extra for this service. Two 1/4” holes must be drilled in each piece no closer that 7” from one end. Use a center punch to create a dimple to start the drill hole.
10.   Drill the holes with a drill press or a portable had drill. Drill all the way through the pipe. A smaller 1/8” hole first will make drilling the 1/4” hole easier.
11. ]   From the center of the first post mark along the wall every 10', and then mark a line using a framing square 22” down the wall. This is where the 24” top rail will be secured. Clamp the pipe to the wall covering the line with the top flush with the top of the wall. Using the existing holes in the pipe drill through the pipe about one inch into the wall and post.
12.   Secure the pipe to the wall using a 4” lag screws and a thick washer between the pipe and wall in only the top hole, do not completely tighten. Do this for the remaining 10' sections and add the connectors as shown in the photo, Pivot the short pipe on the top screw to an angle that allows the connectors to slide on top of it.    all the connectors and 118” top rail pipes have been connected go back and secure the bottom lag screw and washer and tight both. Do the same on the other wall.
13.   Gather four 56” top rail pipes and two end midway connectors and a peak connector. With the assistance of a 8 or 10 step latter assemble the pipe lengths and connectors from each side of the end of the wall, placing the peak connector last.
14. a 56” top rail pipe into the second wall connector (1,2). Place a 118” top rail pipe (3)into the second connector up on the end. The longer the pipe the more flexibility you have to move the ends of the pipe, so place a mid way connector on the end of the 118” pipe(4), and move it away from the end of the 56” pipe until you can slide it over and into position. Do the same on the other side(6,7). Last insert the 118” pipe into the peak end connector(9) and placed an intermediate peak connector on the other end(10). Flexing the long pipe attach it to the tow 56” pipes(6,8). The photo below shows the order of placement. Repeat for each additional segment until completed.   Finished framwork
15. Unfold the cover in a large location that can accommodate the 20'x30' size. Roll or fold the cover so it is 30' long. Transport it to the shelter site, and lay it along the outside of one fence.
16. Attach 30' ropes in three or four places along the length of the cover through the grommets. Throw the ropes over the tubular framework to the other fence.
17. Pull each rope three or four feet pulling the cover over the framework, tie it off and move to the next rope doing the same. Continue to do this until you have pulled the cover over the framework.
18. Using a step latter, secure the center the cover at the frameworks peak, using a bungee ball at two locations. Do the same at the other end. Secure each corner in both directions. Now go back and secure the remaining grommets to the 118” rail near the top of the fence. Alternate between each fence so the cover isn't stretched to one side more than the other. Using the latter finish the end grommets.

Tips

•   Cutting the pipe(top rail) yourself will save money.
• Using deck screws instead of nails will prevent splinting small pieces with less trauma to the structure.
• Adding pegboard to interior wall makes great place to keep tools
•  

Warnings

• The cover is slightly smaller than the stated size. 19'4" x 294" instead of 20x30. This will leave a gap between the end of the cover and rail. You could figure out how to make this up by shortening the pipes or as I did inserting a 4" vertical blind through the bungees and the rail.

Things You'll Need

• 8 4"x4"x8' pressure treated posts
• 6 2"x4"x10' pressure treated boards
• 6 2"x4"x10' boards
• 8 4'x8'x1/2" plywood or OSB
• 12 21'x13/8" Chain link fence top rails
• 1 20'x30' Barn Style Canopy Kit
• 16 60lb Bags Ready Mix Concrete
• 16 1"x2"x4' Wood Stakes
• TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
• Required
• Shovel
• 30' Tape Measure
• 40' Tape Measure
• Wheel Barlow
• Circular Saw
• Hammer
• Clamps
• Socket Wrench
• Level
• String Level
• Strinf
• Optional:
• Concrete Mixer
• Nail Gun
• 10" Cut off Saw
• Pipe Cutter
• Hole Digger
• Impact Wrench
• Post Level