If you have 8mm or Super 8 films lying around the house, it is
never too early to have them transferred to a video. Each time they
are projected, they become more scratched and damaged. In digital
video form, the content can be preserved in the current state.
Steps
- Determine whether you films are 8mm or Super 8. 8mm sprocket
holes are larger, perhaps one third of the width of the film, and
they are on the edge of the film between two frames. Super
8 films have sprocket holes the size of the head of a pin and the
holes are located on the edge but bisecting the middle of
each frame.
- Find a projector designed to project the type of film you have.
You may discover that you have some reels of 8mm and some reels of
Super 8. Some projectors (Dual 8) can handle both kinds. If you
don't own a projector, check out your local Goodwill, eBay or
vintage camera store. You will likely experience flicker in your
transfer unless you can find a variable speed projector. Newer,
more expensive projectors might have a special mode for video
transfer.
- If possible, gently clean your films using rewind spindles and
pulling the film slowly through a soft, lint-free cloth dampened
with a little film cleaner.
- Use canned air and an alcohol swab to clean the tape path on
the projector. Ideally, you will run the film just once and remove
any dirt that might scratch the film or blow away any dust bunny
that might hop into the frame during transfer.
- Find a piece of bright white paper with no discernible texture
to use as a screen. Place the projector on the edge of a table
projecting perhaps 24 inches to your paper screen taped to the
wall. Make the projected rectangle as small and sharp as possible.
Turn on the projector with no film in it to define that
rectangle.
- Use a camera or camcorder that records to a digital
format like DV or Digital 8. Newer cameras have better low light
capturing properties. Best results will come from a camera that has
manual iris and white balance settings.
- Place the camcorder on a tripod next to and behind the
projector and using zoom and focus, find a position where you can
frame up the white rectangle on the screen with as little
keystoning as possible. If you can hook up a video out of the
camera to a monitor, it will make your framing and exposure
correction easier.
- Do a manual white balance on the camera with that white light
on screen filling your frame and set your manual iris so it is
bright without blooming. A zebra feature on the camcorder
set to 100% will help you do this. If the camera does not have
these features, the automatic settings may do an adequate job.
- If the projector has a variable speed adjustment, you should be
able to tweak out the flicker on this white screen.
- Load the sturdiest looking film onto the projector. Start your
camera recording first and then start your projector. This first
pass is your chance to make any adjustments. If you are very lucky,
you could get it on your first try. More than likely, you will have
to run this first film two or more passes to optimize the image
with your manual controls.
- With a digital video master, you can now edit or transfer to
DVD or VHS.
Tips
- Consider taking your films to a professional for duplication.
They will have all the right equipment and it may be worth the
extra cost to avoid damaging priceless family history. Check with
your local specialty camera store or search the yellow pages for a
local place that does video duplication.
- You might be able to find a rear projection screen with a
mirror for lens to lens transfer but beware of screen defects that
will show up as a texture on all your lighter
