Do model bookers regularly work for the same publications or designers?
In the industry, we have what we call bread and butter, which generally tend to be Northern catalogue houses, like GUS, Littlewoods and Freeman's, and they are the mainstay of any agency: the more we can supply to them the better. That is not our prestigious work or work that we promote, but it pays the rent, it pays the salaries. At the next level up you have the department stores, the high street chains like Marks & Spencers or Top Shop, who have very big budgets and they work regularly. NEXT Directories are one of our most important clients in this country because they shoot all year round and they have enormous budgets for models. That's one side of being a model booker. The mail order is a very valid part of it. Surprisingly, the least well paid is the magazine markets. When a girl does a cover of Vogue for example, she gets £50, the agency makes £10, and by the time she's paid tax it's £20 in her pocket. However, that is a platform for a model to become a star because that's the most prestigious magazine of the lot, and on the back of it she could command fees from somewhere between £15-30,000 a day for a mail order company or for a high street chain.