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How To Care For Corn Snakes

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How To Care For Corn Snakes

Follow Mark Amey's step by step guide to looking after your pet. Corn snakes are placid, non-poisonous snakes and are good pets for all ages, so follow VideoJug's guide to caring for them properly. Follow Mark Amey's step by step guide to looking after your pet. Corn snakes are placid, non-poisonous snakes and are good pets for all ages, so follow VideoJug's guide to caring for them properly.

Step 1: Housing and Bedding

Corn snakes should be kept in a glass or wooden tank called a vivarium with adequate ventilation. The tank should measure about 1 metre by 45 centimetres by 45. It should include a heat source controlled by a thermostat. Place the thermostat sensor over the heat source. Fit a UV light which is no more than 2 percent UVB. It should be on 12-14 hours a day and replaced every 6 months. Place a thermometer in the tank; the temperature should be 25-26 degrees during the day, and 22-25 degrees at night. The snake will have a basking area by the heat source of 27-28 degrees. Use newspaper, orchid bark or wood shavings as substrate to cover the floor of the tank. Provide several climbing areas and dark places to hide such as branches, plants, plant pots and boxes. Make sure the water bowl is kept away from the heat source.

Step 2: Handling

To pick up a corn snake, let it see your flat hand so it knows you don't have food, and scoop it up by the middle of the body. Don't try and grab it behind the neck as it will be threatened by this aggression and may bite.

Step 3: Diet

Give your corn snake bottled water which should be changed everyday. They eat mice, which should be bought frozen from a reptile shop or farm shop and defrosted in warm water. Feed your snake once a week with one mouse or more if it is still hungry. You should use feeding tongs. Offer the mouse nose to nose with your corn snake. It will constrict its prey before eating it.

Step 4: Exercise and Play

Corn snakes can be handled everyday, as a form of exercise, but don't handle your snake for a few days after feeding, as they don't enjoy moving around too much when digesting their food.

Step 5: Cleaning

Clean out your snake's faeces once or twice a week and clean the water bowl every day. Change the substrate at the bottom of tank and clean the tank with a reptile friendly disinfectant once a month. Snakes shed their skin and so you do not need to wash them.

Step 6: Health

If old skin gets stuck to your snake around the eyes and tail after shedding, put it in a box containing moist moss, and this will help it remove the dead skin. Corn snakes are prone to obesity so do not overfeed them. If your snake puts on weight but isn't eating, or you notice anything abnormal, take it to the vet. Make sure you wash your hands before and after handling your snake to prevent spreading bacteria such as salmonella.

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Tips & Comments
  1. kozonic1

    i just got my snake back from a friend, he took good care of it for a few months, but in that time i moved into a new house, and after a day i moved the snake into a new enclosure; a much larger ex-patriated fish tank. but he's not eating! stress? fish disease? (though he looks in good health still) mad at me for not sharing a room? i don't know what to do? i'm almost ready to get a pinky and do a force feed!

  2. anisap

    snake and i feed it a substantial amount accorduing to the pet shop.however even after a few days after eating my snake is still on the look out to attack.wat do url tink,any suggestions

  3. HannahB

    just a 'few' things that need correcting... heatmat needs to go on the floor - corns get their heat through their belly so theres not use it being on the wall.. a corn needs a hide in each end ASWELL as branches and vines, hatchlings should be kept in a fuan or small RUB as they can get stressed easily if there is too much open space.. they need a warm end (around 29') and a cool end (room temp/24') NOT a uv light or anything.. NEVER feed on the substrate..the snake in the vid ate some substrate which could potentially kill it..also leave the mouse out on a plate or in a bag to defrost naturally otherwise you could get some areas still frozen and some too hot.. a digital thermometer is needer - those dials are unreliable!! corns dont like human contact..they tolerate it because we enjoy it.. corns dont need a night time drop in temp wooden vivs are better for snakes in general dont feed your snake more than one mouse unless you know it is big enough to handle it..corns are opportunistic feeders and if offered more than one will take it whether they are hungry or not.. if you use orchid bark make sure you bake it in the oven to dry it out as it is a humidity raiser and can cause respiratory infections.. i think thats all that needed correcting...

  4. marksion

    i so scare of snike, but here it looks so cute, and not terrible as i thinks.

  5. DefaltUser17

    these vid has been the most help to me before i got my corn snake! thanks

  6. Makeaskate

    Their was one minor/ Big detail they left out in this video. They can't be feed in their normal habitat. They may eat some of the flooring and have digestive issues which can lead to death.

  7. mickysummers09

    iv just bought a baby hypo corn snake and its my first 1 and i was just wundering wer do you put the hide out on the warm side or cold any 1 no pls

  8. careyjones95

    If your snake refuses to eat, try pthing. Take a sewing or other type needle and poke at the base of the skull towards the brain. This shuld release the smell of brain matter and wiill entice it to eat.

  9. animalmad25

    hi im new on here my corn snake is bout 6yrs old but has not eaten for nearly a month. i have tried getting smaller rats for her defrosting them different but she is still refusing to eat. anyone got any ideas???

  10. bernie1991

    a glass tank is not appropiate for snakes, you end up looseing most the heat and the humidity gets to high