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How To Fit A Cylinder Night Latch

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How To Fit A Cylinder Night Latch

How To Fit A Cylinder Night Latch

How To Fit A Cylinder Night Latch: Our DIY expert Michael Puckey shows VideoJug how to fit a cylinder night latch onto a door. A cylinder night latch is a great security device that will greatly protect your property.

A cylinder night latch lock locks itself automatically as the door is closed. The latch it unleashes cannot be forced back without a key – unless you are on the inside – in which case you can turn the knob.

All cylinder night latches come with a button. When pressed or clicked into position this freezes the latch and stops you from locking yourself out. In some types of lock this button also deadlocks the door, making it impossible to open from the outside – even with a key, so adds an extra level of security.

Step 1:

You will need

  • A cylinder night latch kit – which includes
  • 1 the night latch
  • 1 staple
  • 1 mounting plate
  • 1 cylinder
  • 1 rose
  • some screws
  • You will need a battery drill kit which includes
  • some drill bits
  • most importantly, a flat woodcutting bit
  • 1 chisel,
  • 1 tape measure,
  • 1 pencil,
  • 1 hammer
  • 1 screwdriver,
  • safety goggles
  • dustpan and brush in case of any mess.

Step 2:

Mark the height of the lock

Use your pencil to mark the position of the lock at a comfortable height. It should be positioned 60 mm or 2.5 inches in from the edge of the door.

Step 3:

Select a drill bit

First you need to drill a hole in the door for the cylinder. Check the lock's instructions for the diameter of the hole that you will need to drill. The chances are you will probably need a wide flat bit – which is normally 32mm or 1.25 inches.

Using any drill has its risks. Put on your goggles. Make sure all loose items of clothing and hair are tucked away. Clear the area of any potential hazards and find a steady standing position.

Now insert the drill bit into your drill.

Step 4:

Drill a hole for the lock

Making sure that the drill is straight and level, start to drill. When the drill bit begins to emerge through the other side of the door,
Switch sides and begin to drill from this point. This will prevent the wood from splitting.

Step 5:

Insert the cylinder

Pass the cylindrical bar through the hole to test the fit. There should be enough room for the cylinder to turn within the lock. If there is not, very carefully drill a little extra space.

Step 6:

Replace drill bit

Remember your drill safety.

Choose a bit that is the same width as your screws and attach it to the drill.

Step 7:

Affix the mounting plate

Place the mounting plate over the two cylinders and position the screws. Now drill the mounting plate to the door.

Step 8:

Mark a recess for the lock body

Put the lock body over the mounting plate. Make sure that it is straight. Use your pencil to draw around the protruding edge of the lock body on the side of the door. Then go over your pencil marks to make them clearer.

Step 9:

Chisel out the recess

Before you pick up your chisel, remember your chisel safety. Make sure that you are wearing safety goggles and clear the area of potential hazards. Find a steady standing position and remember to watch your fingers when you do start to chisel.

Begin by making a series of cuts along your pencil outline. Now chisel out the rest of the recess.

Chisel out a little of the recess at a time and keep testing the fit with the lock. If you chisel out too much it will be very difficult to correct.

Step 10:

Attach the lock body

Remember your drill safety.

Choose a drill bit that suits the screws which attach the lock body and attach it to the drill. Hold the lock body with one hand and with the other, drill in the screws.

Step 11:

Does the key work?

Now check that the key works smoothly. If yours doesn't this may be because the cylinder doesn't have enough room to turn within its setting. You will need to remove the lock and carefully widen the cylinder hole using a slightly wider drill bit.

Step 12:

Mark the latch on the frame

Close the door so that the latch rests against the edge of the frame. Then mark the position of the latch on the frame.

Step 13:

Draw around the staple

Hold the staple over the pencil marks on the door frame. Draw around it with your pencil.

Step 14:

Chisel out a recess for the staple

Remember your chisel safety.

First make a series of cuts on your pencil outline. Remove any wood that comes loose. Then chisel out the rest of the recess, continually testing the fit and chiselling out more as necessary

Step 15:

Mark around the staple

Once the staple rests flush with the door, mark around the rest of the staple

Step 16:

Chisel out a recess in the frame

Remember your chisel safety. Make a series of cuts around your new pencil marks and chisel out a recess for the side of the staple so that it lies flush with the frame. Keep testing the fit as before.

Step 17:

Attach the staple

Remember your drill safety. Drill the screws into the staple so that it is attached to the frame, like this.

Step 18:

Test your handiwork

Check that the lock is in good working order.

Done


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    2 out of 2 people found this comment helpful Anonymous  (219 days ago)

    Few extra points: 2a. If you're mounting a night latch to a glazed door (with glass panes), you can purchase locks which take a cylinder 40mm from the edge of the door. 7a. You may need to use a hacksaw (or a bolt cropper) to shorten the screws that go through the mounting plate into the cylinder. If the screws don't go in all the way, chop off a section. 10a. The rod on the back of the cylinder is normally too long, and will need cutting off. Once you've got the cylinder mounted with the mounting plate, refer to the instructions to see how much rod should protrude. It's normally about 7mm beyond the mounting plate. Mark off that length by drawing a line on the rod, unmount the cylinder, and cut the rod to length with a hacksaw (or bolt cropper). If you cut off too much, you'll need to buy a replacement cylinder. 13a - 16a. The position staple (the bit that goes on the frame) determines how tight the lock will shut, so it pays to get it right. Once you've mounted the lock body, and started to mark out the staple, check your positions. You can always chop away a little more wood with your chisel. If you've removed too much wood, you may need to replace with some wood filler. If you have to use filler, get the type with a separate hardener, since this cures quicker and is generally weatherproof. 17a. Remember, you're fitting a lock, so make sure that you have the key in your pocket when you fit the staple, so you don't get locked out. 18a. If you've make a good job of positioning the staple, but the lock is still stiff, it may be because of burrs (bits of sharp metal) on the staple. You can remove these by using a small file. Try not to mark the the finish on the lock.

    1 out of 1 person found this comment helpful ragged13  (259 days ago)

    THANK YOU!

    Anonymous  (308 days ago)

    www.multiscribe.co.uk best tool around for marking out and measuring cylinder locks

    0 out of 2 people found this comment helpful Anonymous  (430 days ago)

    The chiselled area around the staple leaves a very untidy scaring on the door frame. This type of lock is more suitable for store rooms and warehouses where finishing is not a priority.

    0 out of 1 person found this comment helpful Anonymous  (430 days ago)

    It is not recommended to drill with one hand holding the drill as you noticed the wobbling of both door and drill bit on this video.. It will be safer to have another person holding the door while drilling.

    1 out of 3 people found this comment helpful Anonymous  (535 days ago)

    think this is a great site you have done! but check out www.multiscribe.co.uk This new tool will only enhance your videos and make the jobs easier to do. We in the trade love it, but sometimes it takes a while to filter thro' to the DIY market, just take a look at the wow factor!!!

    1 out of 1 person found this comment helpful Anonymous  (551 days ago)

    Very concise. Thank you.

    1 out of 1 person found this comment helpful Anonymous  (586 days ago)

    Ideal for what I needed. Thanks.

    1 out of 1 person found this comment helpful richiepoosie  (599 days ago)

    chesielng out the staple i think should be more neater as coustomers will complain about the gaps.

    1 out of 1 person found this comment helpful nosbod  (682 days ago)

    Good, except I dont have a wooden door.

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