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How To Remove Scratches From Car Paint

How To Remove Scratches From Car Paint

Gary Dorman demonstrates, step-by-step, how to successfully remove scratches from the body of a car. He explains the different techniques as well as tools that can be used for the job. By the end, you will know how to completely remove undesirable scratches from a car.

Right now, we're going to remove a scratch from a car body. We've got a BMW here, that's got real nasty scratches on it. First of all, remove the badges.

The six and the three I've already removed. If you don't remove things and lay them aside, for starters, they're going to get in your way, but more to the point, you don't want to be scratching anything around it and a nice clear canvas makes the job a lot easier. For metalwork, I'm using an 80-grit.

This is quite coarse and I'll have to go down but this will just rip the scratch out and take it back to bare metal. These have to be taken down to bare metal. If you don't take them back to bare metal, those scratches will come back.

You may prime them up and they might be fine, but when you spray, that line, I guarantee - will come back again. So you have to bare metal them, each and every time. The rubbing-down papers that we use all depends on what you're doing.

If you want to rip something apart and take it back to bare metal, you go with coarse 40-grit. You use 40-grit if you want to rip a lot of paint off and then you go through the stages. But for most scratches, we use an 80 on them.

For bumpers, we use a 180 and go finer from there. But you need to finish off around about 400 mark. If you don't, when you prime it all looks fine, but when you spray it, all those little scratch marks will come back.

So you need to go finer, finer, finer, through that whole process. Any body work that you're doing, you always go to a finer grade. To finish off, before you prime up you need to be at around 400 grit to get a nice finish, so you don't get any nasty edges that come back to haunt you.

Using a sander, also known as a D-8. As I've said in previous ones, this one's an air unit so you're going to need a powerful compressor. You can buy them electric, and the electric ones are at about 80-100 pound English money.

If you do a lot, it's a worthwhile thing to invest in. If you just do a little bit here and there, you'd be just fine using a block. If you've got lots of scratches, it makes life a lot easier.

As I'm rubbing down with the machine, you can see the scratches slowly disappearing. Take your time over it, don't try to rush it. Be very aware of where you're rubbing and where you're not rubbing.

Don't start scratching loads of things that don't need to be scratched. Another alternative to using the machine is using a block. I have one here.

The trouble with this is trying to cut it back. I can start making too much of a mess. I've got it not flat, but slightly on the side.

Even so, it's still very hard because the contour of the panel goes that way and I'm trying to rub a scratch that's going upwards there. I'm putting quite a bit of pressure on there to pull the paintwork off and to get the scratch totally removed. Alright, now I'm going to be going to a finer paper.

The finer paper is a 180. Supporting the bumper in the air is a fair position for me. I can rub down here without worrying about catching the bumper of the back lights.

Always feel it with your hands. If it feels smooth, rubbing down with the tips of your fingers, it should be fine. Now, the other alternative way if you have the block, you see the way that I've feathered the color out? From the undercoat to the primer to the base coat.

I have a nice area there, a nice wide area. But when I'm doing it with the block, it's a lot closer. So try and pull that out.

You have a little reach there, and when you spray you're going to see that reach. So you always want to make sure you feather your paintwork out. Now, this one has never sprayed before so this one's fairly easy.

If it's been sprayed two or three times before, there will be a lot of build-up there. You've got to feather that build-up out. Otherwise, you will lose your scratch but you'll see a lot of wobbly lines, that means your paintwork hasn't been feathered out enough.

From there, we've