How To Surf
How To Surf
In this video, a world champion surfer explains how to learn to ride a surfboard. With speed and balance, anyone can take up this sport, especially after watching these instructions.
In this video, I'm going to show you how to surf. So, first things first, we need to catch our wave. So, when the wave is about two meters from the tail of our surfboard, this is when we want to start paddling for our wave.
So, the white water, or the unbroken wave, is about two meters off the end of our surfboard. At this point, we need to choose that's our wave. So, here it comes.
We want to jump onto our surfboard. Not too far forward. Not too far back.
We know this by hooking our feet over the end of the surfboard. Once we're in a good position, we want to get our speed up. So, by the time we get our speed up, the wave will pick us up and take us to the shore.
So, we want to really paddle hard, always looking forward. As soon as that wave has got you, then you'll feel the power of the wave take you. As soon as that has got you, you can start paddling, your arms by your chest, constantly looking forward and after three, 1-2-3, pop to your feet, okay.
Keep nice and low. Keep your arms up, always looking forward for balance and always leaning a little bit on your front foot. That's going to give you a bit more momentum to carry on along the way.
If we lean too far back, the wave's going to continue without us. So, really lean a little bit, you know, harder on your front foot. Always keep your arms up, looking forward.
So, that is how to learn to surf. .