How To Surf A Wave In One Day
This film shows you how to surf so you'll be riding waves in no time. Next time you hit the beach, you'll know how to surf like a pro.
Step 1: You will need
- 1 surfboard
- 1 wetsuit or rash guard
- 1 leash
Step 2: Practice prone surfing
Before you start hanging ten on a 12 foot wave in Hawaii, try riding your first few waves lying down.
Practice your position and body movement on the beach. Lay your board down on the beach. Hold the sides of the board about 3 quarters of the way back. Pull yourself on to the board and lie face down.
Keep your arms in the "chicken wings" posture… And make sure your toes are touching the board's tail
Centre your body on the board and keep it straight… And lift your chin and chest.. You're now ready for the sea.
Step 3: Choose the right wave
It's important to look for the right waves for your first attempt. These should be coming in a straight direction towards the beach and be foamy with plenty of white-water.
Place your board in the water and push it as you wade out. Keep wading until the water is waist deep, jumping over any oncoming waves.
Step 4: Surf
Once again, before you try surfing a wave standing up, have a practice on the beach.
Decide whether you're a "regular" surfer or a "goofy" surfer. A regular surfer puts the left foot forward. A goofy surfer puts their right foot forward. To work out what YOU are, try skidding on a flat surface and see what foot you put in front.
Place your board on the sand and lie on it face down just as you were when riding in the prone position… turn your back foot so the inside of your ankle is touching the deck of the board.
Next, lift your head and chest up. Then slide your front foot forward to where your chest is. Slowly let go of the board… and stand up. Open your shoulders and arms for balance.
Look at the beach as you ride in and bend your legs at the knees, putting a little weight on your front leg. And you're now surfing.
Step 5: Wipe out
Just as there's a correct way to ride a wave, there's also a right way to fall off it!
Be sure to fall off backwards into the waves and wrap your arms around your head to protect it against hard objects such as your board or rocks.
Don't forget to take a full breath before hitting the water!
Step 6: SAFETY WARNING
Always surf where a lifeguard's on duty, and don't go into the water until you're sure about the sea conditions.