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Surfing: How To Read Waves
VideoJug brings you a great guide on surfing with the expertise of Andy Bottomley. Learn how to read the waves and improve your surfing ability dramatically.
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Step 1:
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You will need
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Step 2:
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Get in position
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First of all you should paddle out and position yourself beyond the break zone. Attempt to sit and balance on the surfboard while facing out to sea and looking towards the horizon.
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Look for lumps on the horizon. These lumps are the "sets" which contain the waves you'll eventually want to catch.
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Watch the swell pass by you, become a wave and surge all the way to the break zone where it peaks and then breaks.
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It's a good idea to mark your line up with reference points on the beach.
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Try to find some objects to line up: flags, buildings, telegraph poles - and stick to that line up to place yourself in optimum position.
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Step 3:
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The timing
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You want the swell to come underneath you just as it's about to break.
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If you're in perfect position to catch the wave, you may only need a few paddle strokes.
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If it seems that the wave is going to break a fair bit further inside than from where you are positioned, you're going to need to start to paddle a good while before the wave reaches you.
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Step 4:
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Catch a wave
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The shape of the wave should determine your angle.
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If it's a mellow, slow-rolling break, you should paddle into the wave straight-on and still find the curl.
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If it's steeper, you might have to approach it at an angle to help avoid nose-diving.
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By starting to catch green waves you're progressing your surfing to a new level. So be patient and always keep working on the basic techniques of body positioning, paddling and pop up. These are the platforms to your surfing future.
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