Surfing: The Stance
This film takes you through one of the first and most important skills you need to master in order to surf a wave - the stance. So let VideoJug and our team of surfing experts show you how to master the Stance, and help you on your way to surfing like a professional.
Step 1: You will need
- 1 surfboard
- 1 wetsuit or rash guard
- 1 leash
Step 2: Your hips, legs and feet
Before entering the surf, and even before trying to stand up, you need to be familiar with your stance and feet positioning on the board.
So before you head to the water, practice "the feel" of the stance on the beach.
Make a mound of wet sand, approx 1ft / 30cm high, and place your board on it, with the middle of the board directly over the point of the mound.
Carefully step on to the board with your back foot first… and place your front foot into its position.
The basis of a good stance can be related to that of a goalkeeper about to save a penalty, as opposed to, let's say, a sprinter about to start a race.
With your feet facing across the deck of the surfboard, adjust your footing and get your body side on.
Push your hips forward, placing more weight on the front leg. The front leg will be your accelerator, while the back leg acts as the brake.
Step 3: Your knees
REMEMBER!! Bend your knees to compensate for the motion of the waves - this is absolutely crucial to riding a wave successfully. If you keep your legs straight, you won't feel the wave and you'll be fighting against its natural motion.
Step 4: Your upper body
Keep your arms up - this is essential for balance. If you feel yourself falling pull your lead arm back to the centre line of the deck and try to stay stable.
Open your shoulders, which in turn will open your hips and strengthen your stance.
Keep your head up and look forward, because where you look is where you go. If you look down, you'll pull your weight through your shoulders and simply fall straight off the board.
Now try and rock the board backwards and forwards to get the feel of accelerating and slowing down whilst in the water.
Step 5: Practice
Now take your skills to the water.
Make sure you start by surfing in the shallows where there's plenty of "white water" and you can exit the surf easily.
Also make sure you always surf where there's a lifeguard on duty.